The wicked vanilla and chocolate ice cream ball. [Photo by Antony Otera / Shanghai Star]

Here comes the longhaired gentleman on his way to the restroom. Piercing blue eyes peek out from a high, white fairyfloss-like beard. He’s using a walking stick and is not quite the mafioso persona I had earlier imagined. Clearly he’s more Gandalf than Gandolfini. I really ought to go home now to hit the mattress. After all, I’ve been making a real effort to banish my wicked ways and count my calories.

But every time I think I am out, the dessert list pulls me back in. My companion orders the chocolate mousse with Grand Marnier. She’s in sugar heaven. I go for the Tartufo Bianco e Nero (a huge homemade vanilla and chocolate ice cream ball coated with chocolate chips and almond flakes with vanilla Amaretto sauce).

I shovel in a mouthful, letting it linger on my tongue awhile to taste the sweetness mixed with the heady, distinctive flavor of the Amaretto before letting it melt like a communion wafer in my mouth.

All in all, Goodfellas spells a great atmosphere, fabulous food, and an attractive and interesting clientele. Give it a try. Tell ’em Big Tony sent you. There’s no need to thank me. But remember, one day — and that day may never come — I may call on you for a favor.

IF YOU GO

Goodfellas Italian Restaurant Address: 7 Yan’an Dong Lu

Telephone: 021-6323-2188